Surfer Girl, or Beach Girl?

Living in California one of the top priorities on my to-do list is to try catch a real wave, be a surfer girl for a day. Having heard the Italian boys in some of the flats nextdoor are amazingly good surfers, I dared to join them one saturday morning. The best waves one can catch are present between 4-8am, AM!! With my flatmate Martina not being an early bird at all, we got a little compensation and were allowed to meet the guys at about 6am. They’d already packed the boards on top of the jeep, and found us some decent wet suits. After all, we were gonna dive into the pacific ocean at the early glances of February. The best waves we were promised to get at Huntington Beach, so with a -let me say very appropiate- CD “ Best of the Beach Boys “we not only dreamt but went on our way to become: californicated...
As a total beginner in catchin waves on a board (I even hoped my experience in wind surfing and sailing would come in handy) they gave me the biggest surf board. A 5 minute private lesson from Matt and Guido had to do the trick. Only, I totally sucked! With a board that big, you have more stability when catching a wave. The big disadvantage, better the main challenge is to get that floating island through the breakers. With a board surface that big, my louzy condition, and those water giants, it was impossible for me to get through. I managed to defeat 3 or 4, sadly to surrounder to the very next one that killed me and showed me all sides of the sand below water. Attached to your foot this big surfin board, thrown around by the waves above water while you are below deck, I thought this was the end of my biped existence. Luckily I ended up only with a cut rather than a foot amputation. So this Surfer Girl turned out to be more of a Beach Girl, safe on the sand, looking at the real Surfer Boys showing off their killer wave-catchin talent.